"What’s a move? When the waiter at Il Mulino in the Village attacks your table with freebie plates of sautéed zucchini, chunks of Parmesan, slices of salami, and garlicky bruschetta practically before you’ve had a chance to sit down, that is a move. Certain tableside maneuvers like presenting the customer with a raw T-bone for inspection before it’s grilled is considered a pretty good move. The Scalinatella waiter who stands majestically before the table and rattles off 25 specials without breaking a sweat? Classic move. And the guy at menuless Rao’s who pulls up a chair, turns it around backward, sits down, and says, “Okay, let’s talk about what’s for dinner”? That guy is a move genius. “He’s really the one creating, orchestrating, and improvising your particular experience,” explains Carbone. All great Italian restaurants of this ilk have a signature move."